Evolution of Surfboard Design : Are You Delusional?

The world of surfboard design is a fascinating journey through time, innovation, and personal growth. From the ancient wooden boards of Hawaiian kings to the high-performance shortboards that dominate modern competitions, surfboard shapes and materials have evolved dramatically. However, as the saying goes, sometimes the most progressive thing for your surfing can be moving "backwards" to a fun shape with more volume. This realization hit me hard after years of stubbornly clinging to the boards that I thought defined my surfing identity.

A Personal Tale: The Delusion of "Always"

For years and years, I had been riding boards that, in hindsight, were too small for me. I was caught in the trap of "always"—the belief that because I had always ridden a certain type of board with a certain volume, and that was the best for me. My quiver consisted of high-performance shortboards, sleek and narrow, designed for sharp turns and aerials. These boards were great in theory, but in practice, they left me struggling to catch waves and fighting for every ounce of speed and approaching sections a few milliseconds too late.

It wasn't until a particularly frustrating surf session that I decided to make a change. I had been watching a few friends glide effortlessly on their retro fish and mid-length boards, catching wave after wave with ease. They looked like they were having a blast, while I was floundering in the lineup, missing waves and feeling more out of sync with the ocean than ever.

The Shift to Fun Shapes

One day, after an especially frustrating session, I borrowed a friend's fish—a board with more volume and a wider outline than I was used to. The difference was immediate and profound. I caught my first wave with minimal effort, and the board felt fast and lively under my feet. The extra volume gave me a sense of stability and buoyancy that I hadn't felt in years. Suddenly, surfing was fun again.

I started experimenting with other shapes: retro twins, mid-lengths, and even a classic longboard. Each board taught me something new about my surfing and the waves I rode. The increased volume and different outlines opened up a whole new world of possibilities. I was catching more waves, making sections I never thought possible, and rediscovering the pure joy of surfing.

The Performance Paradox

What surprised me most was that my overall performance didn't decrease—in fact, it often improved. The increased wave count and the ability to get to the spots I wanted to get to, allowed me to work on my technique and flow. The stability of the larger boards gave me the confidence to try new maneuvers, and the different lines I could draw on the wave expanded my surfing repertoire. I realized that performance isn't just about riding the latest high-performance shortboard; it's about finding the right tool for the job and maximizing your fun and effectiveness in the water.

Embracing the Evolution

The evolution of surfboard design is a testament to the diverse and dynamic nature of surfing itself. While high-performance shortboards have their place, so do the retro shapes and alternative designs that are making a comeback. These boards are not just a nostalgic nod to the past; they are a progressive step forward for many surfers, offering a fresh perspective and a new level of enjoyment.

If you're feeling stuck in a rut with your current board, consider stepping back to a shape with more volume and a different outline. You might find that what seems like a step "backwards" is actually the most progressive move you can make for your surfing. More waves, more fun, and potentially even better performance await those willing to embrace the full spectrum of surfboard design.

Conclusion: Ride What Feels Right

At Mid Fin Co., we celebrate the rich history and exciting future of surfboard design. We encourage every surfer to explore the variety of shapes and sizes available, to find what truly enhances their experience in the water. Whether it's a retro fish, a mid-length cruiser, or a classic longboard, the right board for you is the one that brings the most joy and connection to the waves.

So, if you've been stuck riding boards that don't quite fit, take it from me—sometimes the best way forward is to look back and embrace the fun shapes of the past. Your surfing will thank you for it.